Too little, and it's difficult to press them and get the brake and clutch systems to engage. Now the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal, and the bite & pedal feel totally normal We have got a clutch from Zman to fit in the new year too, so it should be excellent then Took me about 30 minutes after looking at the guide. Enough to make me go "oh ****", roll into a parking lot and then realise I couldn't get the car to move anymore. I can't figure out why the clutch pedal in my mustang is too high. Hydraulics: When you push down the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder (CMC) uses hydraulic pressure to push out a rod on the slave cylinder. We go over how clutch pedal adjustment affects the clutch hydraulic system. This is amplified by the impossibility of adjusting this distance in the system itself, and it becomes necessary to resort to other tricks or to simply adapt to the point as it is. Discussion Starter • #1 • Sep 17, 2014 (Edited) I am the original owner of a 2000 F350 SD 4x4, 7.3L, 6 spd manual tranny. Once the proper distance is set, tighten the lock nut. On pedal depression the inverse is true. Resistance is felt when the throwout bearing is pushed against the clutch pressure plate. The clutch does not slip at all and the car runs great. Easy test is to drive up a hill in high gear (4/5th) if revs rise but engine speed doesn’t clutch gone. I explained the tech's reasoning for his statements because that's another discussion in of itself. So my previous clutch started slipping pretty bad out of nowhere. Yes, I have adjusted clutch master cylinder rods to alter pedal height. It is very simple: The rod pushes on a steel lever that in turn pushes in the pressure plate to release the clutch disc. Metal. Having a high clutch means that the biting point is further up in your clutch’s pedal travel when fully released. I scheduled an appointment to get it looked at and on the way to the shop (an hour long drive) it went out completely. Raise the front of the F-100, remove the jack stands and lower it to the ground. I have a picture of the clutch the tech sent me if I can figure out how to upload pictures on mobile. They replaced the clutch and flywheel and now the engagement point is crazy high. Shavings. Last time I drove one it was a courtesy car and the bite point was so high it reminded me of the BSM car I learned in Wasn't sure if that was natural or whether previous drivers had just thrashed the poor thing! It's probably 1-2" down (90% up in the travel). Too much free play and the pedals feel loose or spongy. Many motorcyclists consider the biting point on a hydraulic clutch system too high. Gotta say everything besides 1st and 2nd feels great. When I tried to start from a stop in 1st metal shavings came out of the AC vents and then I couldn't get the car to move. You don't mention a car, but my 2004 STI has a high engagement point, nearly at the top. 8.4k miles on it. Also find a bit of space…. The shop either didn't adjust the clutch at all, or adjusted it wrong and are just too lazy to take a couple of minutes to adjust it correctly Generally if your clutch catches “high" as opposed to where it caught when the car was new or when you first got it it is wearing out or worn out! I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is. I drove friend's GTI and his clutch was grabbing much lower, it made shifting much easier compared to my Z06 When I said what the tech told me vs. what other people online have told me, I wasnt saying anyone else was wrong. While stationary shove into 4th and try pull off. As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. check out the. Have you noticed that it tends to cause the point of engagement to change frequently after doing so? my one was too high when I got it of my sister and was horrid to drive at 110k put in an LUK clutch and its back to normal.... what often finished off a clutch that easily had another 40k miles in it, was the pedal hits an upper stop and engages the clutch more and more, as it causes wear so it causes it to engage more, slip more = new clutch. Driving is now very difficult. If it isn't slipping, then I … If you don' have an actual clutch issue then your problem will be down at the pedal. Make note of how much you need to depress the clutch pedal before it disengages the clutch and allows you to put the car into gear without grinding any of the gears. After going here and there all day, I realized that my clutch pedal is way higher than the brake pedal. I personally prefer mine to disengage/engage fairly high in the range of the clutch pedal too (high relative to all the way down). Somebody is trying to persuade a friend that the clutch in her Volvo 440 is about to go because the pedal is higher than the brake or the gas pedal. A high clutch biting point ... and everyone makes a mistake every now and then. No joke. They are extremely tough to launch but you'll be able to drive anything if you can do this. With all the money spent I really just want to enjoy the car again. Having slackened pedal pivot bolt 1.Slacken the nut & bolt securing the pedal stop-plate to the pedal bracket 2 Using a lever raise the stop plate fully so that there is a considerable amount of free play at the pedal 3 Lower the stop-plate until there is between 1.0 & 3.0 mm free play at the pedal. Before the pedal was very high and the bite was too obviously. It wasn't a whole lot of them but it happened as I was trying to start in 1st and it coincided with when my clutch finally started to completely give out. As the coupe is back from paint and the roads are better, I drove her. But you WILL have increased pedal effort to go with it. IIRC some Aygos had a too-small clutch which wore out too quickly. Clutch pedals are usually higher than brake. The shop advised me not to adjust it and to give it a few days to get used to. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. vBulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. While it's true you need to give the clutch a few days to start settling in, and ~ 500 miles to completely break in the clutch, your clutch set point is far too high. But the transmission and HVAC vents are not connected though. And yes the car needed a clutch, I just didn't put it in to try and fix the pedal. Managed to roll into a gas station and get it towed to the shop. My foot is almost completely off the clutch before the car moves (in 1st from a stop). Maybe they just forgot to adjust it and thought they did? A normal clutch pedal depression will feel nice and smooth. I just replaced the clutch and master cylinder. The car has about 10k miles on it. However prior to starting the work it was evident that the clutch bite point was very high, almost at he end of the pedal travel. Meh. I'd learned to drive and had driven machines with a new clutch that grabbed at the last inch of travel. Normally a clutch will start to slip when it is worn out! If you aren’t comfortable with the point at which your clutch engages, you can easily adjust it … http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1561248, http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1650417, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BldN2KzMCkY, General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines, Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by Bimmerparts.com, Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld, Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by eBMWParts.com, Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack, Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound, Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.net, General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts, 1 Series & 2 Series (E81, E82, E87, E88, F20, F22, F23), 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44), 5 Series (E28, E34, E39, E60, E61, F10, G30), 7 Series (E23, E32, E38, E65, E66, F01, F02), 2003+ X3, X4 (E83, F25, F26, F97, F98, G02), 2019+ Z4 (G29) / 2020+ Toyota Supra (A90/J29), BMW Parts For Sale sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, BMW Parts Wanted sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay, Georgia sponsored by Harrison Motorsports, If this is your first visit, be sure to Now, I've owned a few manual transmission cars in the past (all with clutch cables, not hydraulic) and the pedals were all lighter than my WRX, and this is including a 5.0 Mustang with a clutch disc the size of a small pizza! Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. I agree with that that'd be a waste of time. My clutch pedal is really high in my car. i have a 1963 nova and brake pedal too high, i want to kinda lower it down, please help, i got to lift up my leg just to brake Yet, unfathomably, many of them suffer from clutch engagement high on the pedal travel. Is this indicative of When I got the car it had an automatic in it and someone just pulled the clutch pedal out. I purchased a used pedal and put a new rubber stop in but the pedal still sits to high. Hi all, I have a July 08 R56 Mini Cooper S. Manual with LSD. Even forums with sections for newcomers! Clutch pedal adjustment should be checked after a new clutch has been installed. On the other hand, having a low clutch means that the biting point is located further down of a fully depressed clutch pedal. A hydraulic clutch is a self-adjusting clutch. My main problem here is that the biting point on the clutch is quite high, difficult to describe, but when i depress the pedal i can feel the clutch starting to bite only in the last couple of inches of travel, which doesn't make for a very confortable nor effective way of shifting. If it comes out, it should reduce pedal effort and possibly give better clutch pedal placement. I'm not sure if I should just give it time or not. Since the friction material on the clutch plate will wear down over time, the hydraulic clutch will automatically adjust to compensate for this loss. I haven't worked on a yaris so I can't give you any tips unique to that car! I cut the weld off the pedal and used a punch to drive it out then installed a hiem joint onto the rod going to the master. Anyone else with an 08/09 think the pedal effort is too high? The clutch (stock) does not start to grab until the pedal is about 2/3 -3/4 up. Some vehicles have stiffer clutch pedals than others, depending on the amount of torque the transmission is designed to handle and if the vehicle comes with any type of clutch assist. Is this the design, or is something dreadful about to happen? Be sure the clutch pedal doesn't come up too high before it engages the clutch. Too much free pedal play isn’t good, either, because too much pedal travel is used up doing nothing: There’s not enough movement left at the bottom of its travel to compress the clutch springs and allow the engine flywheel and the clutch disk to separate. 11wrx hatch. I haven't been asking the same question over and over again. When you step on the clutch pedal with your foot, there should not be too much resistance. Compared to my wife's 2006 Cobalt with a knackered clutch, you barely need to raise the clutch pedal at all. Have you personally adjusted your clutch? Ok, I'll bite, how the **** does a clutch fail and send metal shavings out the HVAC vents! For most drivers, this is not comfortable. This is the hydraulic portion of the system. They are in development of a hydraulic clutch conversion for the Fox bodies and the SN95 cars. When I step on it, the first 2-3 inches are very soft, like nothing is happening, no spring engaging or anything. There is a metal nipple on the pedal that gets worn out and can add to your problem. It still isn't better. The previous clutch engaged much lower. :lmao: I'm just curious on what else could be making the pedal do this? I have a '98 Rodeo and the clutch catches extremely high up the pedal. Oops. The system was bled right last weekend when the clutch was put in also. Is this normal? Shavings have nothing to do with it, but you brought it up, peeps called "BS". Re: Accelerator pedal too high for small feet In a previous car I GLUED a strip of cardboard to the underside (right hand side) of the rubber mat (the bit where your right heel sits) On this car I have used a staple gun from work and STAPLED a strip of carpet with non-slip underlay to the underside of the (non-slip) mat. Most late-model street vehicles use an internal hydraulic clutch release bearing, sometimes called a concentric slave cylinder (CSC). I've barely asked any questions at all! This means the clutch pedal will move about one inch before there is any resistance in the pedal. I don't think that this adjustment would really affect the wear on the clutch, as it seems to me that it's just the pivot angle that's being changed, not the actual engagement point. It's actually really stressing me out. Hi All My car is almost back on the road after a bit of TLC. I was having an e-mail exchange yesterday with a company called Mad Hatter Racing out in Idaho. 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